Rain or shine, that should be the motto of Ano Nuevo State Park where we'd gone this past Saturday on the last day of guided tours which ran December 15 - March 31. It poured just for us that day.
Seeing the Ano Nuevo elephant seals up close had been on my bucket list of things to do around the Bay Area. I'd seen them serenditiously once a few years back near San Simeon; we'd looked out the car window from the road and there they were, hundreds of big testosterone fueled bulls, throwing their weight around. It was an awesome sight. Still, the experience left me wanting more. It felt like cheating seeing them from a roadside parking lot.
Ano Nuevo is a state park in Pescadero, between Davenport and Half Moon Bay and a protected refuge for elephant seals. It's a beautiful drive to get there. I'd booked the 9:15am guided walk, the first tour of the day. The early morning sky was cloudy as we left our home and we drove through patches of fog over 17.
Bu just as we were pulling up to the ranger station to pay our 10 dollar parking fee, it started to rain. By the time we drove 100 feet to the parking lot, it was pouring. We parked and looked up at the sky, wondering if the rain would abate.
Soon, a few other cars started to arrive. Kids and parents huddled around their cars, like nervous water fearing cats.
My kids had on rain jackets atop layers of clothing, and rain boots. The husband and I were only semi prepared for rain; we had on water resistent jackets, but for shoes, we were wearing light mesh sneakers. Grandpa was the most prepared, clad in head to toe waterproof clothing. We had one umbrella among us.
The rain was unrelenting. The rain was sideways!
The families with kids turned and fled, probably heading to Starbucks. This was a definite rainstorm. I looked at the emptying parking lot and thought we'd better leave as well. But grandpa and the husband had resolve. "We'll be fine," the husband encouraged.
I ducked into the gift shop and emerged with a two dollar rain poncho, in bright yellow. "Ok, I'm ready," I said, smiling weakly.
About eight other people also had resolve so we followed them, this group of 30-something singles, all dressed in hiking boots. They looked cold, but not bothered by the downpour. Then down the trail we went to meet our guide at the big tree on a distant bluff. That tree looked miles away.
We sloshed down the well marked and well maintained path, past and through puddle after enormous puddle. We were soaked. But as we walked, we got our mojo back. It was still pouring but it was exhillerating to be outside while mother nature did her thing, even if were soaked and chilled to the bone.
As this was the end of the elephant seal season, we saw only pups. They were in swim school! Our guide said the pups were the class of 2012. They were cute, looking back at us with their inky, curious eyes. As we walked through a couple of small dunes, I tried to imagine what the place would look like while crowded with adult elephant seals at the height of the mating season. We passed the skeleton of a pup who'd been probably crushed by the weight of an adult male.
Toward the end of the walk, the rain settled into a drizzle and we saw other groups heading up the trail. We passed a woman already carrying a small child which is something you probably don't want to do on a wet, soggy day. Parts of the trail were definitely slippery. I don't think I could have managed to carry a small child for 4.5 miles, even in dry weather. It's just too far of a walk for small kids. Strollers are not recommended, especially on sand dunes! There are no snack breaks either and food is not allowed on the trail. So if you have small children - wait until you know they can walk the entire way. My kids are 7 and adventuresome but it still felt as if we were holding up the 30-somethings in our group.
I'd looked into touring Ano Nuevo before the start of the guided season. At the time, there'd been plenty of space available, but then I got busy and forgot to book until it was nearly too late. The best time to see the Ano Nuevo elephant seals if probably toward the end of January, at the height of the land population. We'll go again next year. It's an amazing experience.
Ano Nuevo is a rain or shine destination. In fact, our guide said the elephant seals like the rain. So next season, go forth and book a guided walk with confidence, it will not be canceled, rain or shine. But heed the advice of the bring rain gear! We also packed extra day clothes, which we slipped into thankfully after the tour.
Don't let the rain deter you. When most everyone else packed up and left, we stayed... and had an adventure!
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